6 Gastro Experiences in Punta Cana You Must Try

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Restaurant in the Dominican Republic

Punta Cana has hundreds of restaurants and most of them are interchangeable. These six aren’t, because in each case the location is doing something no kitchen can fake: a platform hanging off a crane, a dining room on stilts over the water, a hilltop two hours inland.

I’ve eaten at all of them, some more than once, some once and that was enough. I’ve lived in Punta Cana for close to twenty years, so this isn’t a list built from other lists. Where there’s a catch, it’s in here.

Before anything else, the arithmetic. Restaurant bills in the Dominican Republic carry 18% ITBIS and a 10% legal service charge, so the number on the menu becomes 28% larger at the bottom. Nobody is scamming you; it’s on the receipt and it’s the law. But it means a “$60 per person” place is a $77 per person place, and at the top end of this list that difference is real money.

Dinner in the Sky

A table for around twenty people, strapped into seats, winched into the air on a crane with the chef working in the middle of it. You eat suspended over Bávaro with your feet hanging.

It is the most expensive meal on this list by a distance, and you are paying for the crane, not the cooking. The food is fine.

The experience is not remotely fine, in the good sense. If you’re going to do one showy thing on the trip, this is the one people are still talking about at home eighteen months later.

Practical bits: you book a named session time rather than turning up, the sunset sittings go first and fill weeks ahead in February and March, and they cancel for wind. Bring a layer, it’s several degrees cooler forty-odd metres up with the sea breeze than it is on the sand.

One warning I’d want given to me. If you are afraid of heights in any serious way, this is not a “you’ll be fine once you’re up there” situation. You are belted into a chair with nothing under your shoes for the length of the sitting, roughly an hour, and there is no getting down early. Two people in a group of twenty-two is a normal rate for someone deciding at the last minute that they’d rather not.

Montaña Redonda

The one that isn’t in Punta Cana at all. It’s a flat-topped hill near Miches, roughly a two-hour drive each way, and the reason everyone goes is the swings and hammocks set on the edge with a 360-degree view over the Laguna Redonda and the coast.

There’s a restaurant at the top doing Creole seafood, and here’s the honest version: you are not driving four hours for that lunch. You’re driving for the hill. The food is decent, simple, cooked for people who arrived hungry, priced accordingly.

Two things catch people out. You can’t drive a normal car to the summit: the last stretch is loose dirt at a gradient that eats rental cars, so you park at the bottom and take one of the open trucks up for a small fee a head. And it fills from about 11:00, which matters, because the entire point is a photograph with nobody else in it.

Leave Bávaro at seven. I’m serious about the seven.

Check the sky before you commit. In low cloud you’ve spent four hours in a car to look at grey.

Jellyfish Beach Restaurant

Bávaro, directly on the sand, a wooden building with a big shaded terrace and the water about fifteen steps from the table. Seafood, mostly: lobster, shrimp, whole grilled fish.

This is the one I’d send a couple to for a first proper dinner out. It sits on public beach, so you don’t need to be a guest of anything, and it works both as a lunch in swimwear and as a dinner you put a shirt on for. The kitchen is competent rather than inventive, which in a beach restaurant is exactly the right ambition, and the grilled catch of the day is almost always the thing to order over anything with a sauce. Sunset falls between about 18:00 and 19:15 here depending on the month, and there’s no twilight to speak of at this latitude, so a table booked for seven gets you the light and a table booked for eight gets you the dark.

Book it. It’s small, it’s popular, and walking up at eight on a Saturday doesn’t work. Two or three days ahead in low season, a week in February.

They also rent loungers on their stretch of sand during the day, which is a decent way to spend a morning if you’re not staying beachfront.

Playa Blanca

Inside Puntacana Resort & Club, on one of the better beaches on this coast, in a building that’s essentially a big open pavilion facing the sea.

The catch is access. This is a gated private resort community and you cannot simply drive in. You need a restaurant reservation, and the reservation is what gets your name to security at the gate. Book first, then drive. People turn up hoping to talk their way through and get turned around, and then it’s a forty-minute round trip for nothing.

Worth it for lunch more than dinner. The point is the water and the sand, and you can’t see either at nine at night.

La Yola

Same resort, different register. La Yola is built out over the water on stilts, shaped like an upturned fishing boat, and it’s the nicest-looking restaurant in the region by most people’s reckoning. Mediterranean and Caribbean, heavy on fish.

It’s a special-occasion place and it prices like one. Same gate rule as Playa Blanca: reservation first, then the guard has your name.

If you’re choosing between the two, La Yola is the better dinner and Playa Blanca is the better afternoon.

Capitán Cook

El Cortecito, right on the beach, plastic chairs in the sand, going for decades. You pick your fish or your lobster off a bed of ice by the entrance and they grill it over charcoal outside. The paella has a reputation and deserves it, though it arrives twenty minutes later than anyone promises, because it is genuinely being cooked rather than reheated, and the wait is the sign that you ordered correctly. This is not a refined room. It is plastic furniture, a concrete floor that turns into sand about a metre from your table, a speaker playing bachata slightly too loud, somebody selling sunglasses coming past every ten minutes, and a view of the Atlantic doing what it does. Half the people reading this will love it and half will wonder why it’s on a list. I’ve brought both kinds of guest and I can usually guess in advance which one I’m sitting with.

Now the thing I actually want to tell you, because it’s the single most common complaint about eating in this part of the country and it isn’t fraud, it’s a misunderstanding that costs people a hundred dollars.

Lobster is sold by weight, not by portion. When you point at one, ask what it weighs and what the price per pound is, and do the multiplication out loud before you nod. A large lobster can be three pounds. At a typical per-pound price that is not a $40 dinner, it’s a $90 one, and the surprise arrives an hour later when you’re relaxed and it’s too late to say anything.

Ask the two questions. It takes fifteen seconds, nobody is offended, and the same rule holds at every beach seafood place from here to Bayahíbe.

Weight, then price per pound. In that order.

Getting to them

Jellyfish, Capitán Cook and Dinner in the Sky sit in the Bávaro strip, ten to twenty minutes apart, and a taxi handles all three at RD$300–600 a hop. The two resort restaurants need the booking made before you set off, not on arrival at the gate.

Montaña Redonda is the only one that really wants a car: two hours out, two hours back, no useful public transport, and tour operators sell it as a half-day at $60 to $80 a head.

That last point is where I have an obvious interest, so weigh it accordingly. Two airport taxis run about $70; a small car for a day runs about the same and also does Macao, the supermarket and dinner. Prices are on the main page. If you’d rather just ask, message us with your dates and we’ll tell you straight whether a car earns its keep for your week.

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